Marubuci kuma mai bincike Heinrich Harrer: biography, aikin, mafi kyau littattafai, da kuma ban sha'awa facts

Da rayuwarsa da littattafai masu yawa kimanta ta fuskar membobinsu na Nazi jam'iyyar, yin wani ƙarshe a kan muradi ikon da ya kira da kuma ilimi nasarori. Heinrich Harrer ko da yaushe daukarsa ya tsaya a cikin akida da kuma soja farkisanci kungiyar a matsayin involuntary kuma ba da cikakken m, ko da yake ya yi kokarin ba su nuna shi. Idan ba ka hašawa yawa muhimmancin a ra'ayin siyasa, Harrer, za mu iya kawai mamaki da tenacity da kuma ƙarfin hali na wannan sanannen mountaineer kuma matafiyi.

farkon shekaru

An haife shi a 1912 a kananan Austria gari Obergossene, a cikin iyali na wani akwatin gidan ma'aikacin Yozefa Harrera da matarsa Johanna. A 1927 da suka koma Graz, inda Heinrich Harrer sauke karatu daga makarantar sakandare da kuma shigar da University of Karl Franz. Daga 1933 zuwa 1938 ya yi karatu labarin kasa da ilimin motsa jiki a lokaci guda tsunduma tayi da kuma gudun kan.

Ya kasance wani dan takarar su shiga a cikin Winter gasar wasannin Olympics ta 1936, da aka gudanar a Jamus. Amma Austria kauracewa shi saboda chargeability malamai a mai tsayi gudun kan su kwararru cewa katange su daga Olympic gangara. A 1937, Heinrich Harrer lashe downhill gasar, a kunshe a cikin shirin na Duniya Student Games, amma ya zama gaskiya sha'awar ga hawa da shi.

Arewa Face na Eiger

By karshen jami'a shakka a kan lissafi Harrer da dama hawan tudu da mafi category na mawuyaci. A shekara ta 1938, tare da abokinsa da kuma countryman Fritz Kasparek, Heinrich Harrer zo zuwa ga ci na almara "Wall of Mutuwa" - arewa fuska babbar dutse dala tsawo na 3970 mita, wanda ta haifa da sunan Eiger a cikin Swiss Alps.

Wannan bango zauna unclimbed na dogon lokaci, ko da yake da yawa yunkurin cewa da'awar da dama rayuwarsu. Hanyoyi generated a kan Eiger arewa fuska, rikitarwa ma'aunan kasa tsarin da saman sauyin yanayi da kuma yanayi a yankin. Surface smoothed yawa avalanches, kusan rufe gaba daya da kankara, kuma yana da wani talakawan gangaren 75 digiri, da kuma a wasu yankunan da mummunan nuna bambanci.

A high mita na rockfalls da avalanches, cikin sauri canza yanayin sanya hawan a arewa fuskar Eiger m. A sakamakon haka, hukumomin hukumance rufe da gangara domin hawa da dutsen ma'aikatan ceto ki kuɓutar da waɗannan da suka zo a kan nasu a kan wannan hanya.

Yuli 24, 1938

Riga a kan bango na Austrians Kasparek da Harrer a wani cuta da biyu Jamus climbers - Anderle Hekmayerom da Ludwig Vorgom cewa ya dauki mafi m kayan aiki ga nassi na kankara surface. The hadin gwiwa yunkurin hawa wani rabo, duk da wasu katsalandan a lokacin da ceto kawai inshora, da kuma samun a cikin wani ambaliyar ruwa, daga wanda ya kuɓutar da kawai abin dogara kayan aiki, hakuri da kuma juriya. Heinrich Harrer, wanda littattafai yawanci bayyana ta daban-daban expeditions, gaya baya game da wannan taron a cikin shirin labari "The White Spider" (1959).

Nasarar da Austria-German kungiyar na hawa da ya faru kawai watanni uku bayan da annexation na Austria ta Nazi Jamus, Nazi farfaganda sanya wata alama ce rashin laifi m manufar farkisanci. Harrer tare da sauran Eiger nasara samu da yawa karrama da kuma lambobin yabo, kazalika da masu sauraro tare da Hitler da sauran Nazi shugabannin.

Balaguro zuwa Himalayas

HAWA shafi wasanni, wanda a Nazi Jamus, da aka bai kulawa ta musamman. A ci na sabon vertices da kuma wucewa unexplored hanyoyin Hitler ta farfaganda ga m muhimmancin zuwan duniya mamayar da Aryan Nation. Tare da wannan ganging Hitler ta jarrabawa da sufi da koyarwar Shambhala - almara kasa sanaki supermen, mai ilmi da cewa yin iya karawa da iko a kan kome.

A cewar labari, wannan sufi da aka located daga cikin Himalayan kololuwa, watakila a Tibet - m ƙasar, wanda gudanar a samu karanta 'yan kasashen waje, da kuma game da wanda akwai wani takamaiman bayani daga Turawa. Saboda haka, sane da dama expeditions na Jamus climbers shirya don gano yankin. Shi ba a san ko manufar da aka search na mythical Shambhala Himalaya balaguro a 1939, da wani ɓangare na abin da aka hada da Harrer, amma shi ke game da shi sau da yawa ce da masu bincike, m da cewa sanannen matafiyi, dogon bõye Nazi baya.

Bincike hanya a kan Nanga Parbat

The dogon tafiya, wanda wuni a cikin shahararrun littafin na waɗanda rubuta Heinrich Harrer - "shekara bakwai a Tibet", da aka nufin shirya domin ci na daya daga cikin Himalayan kololuwa - wani tsararru na Nanga Parbat, wanda aka located a arewa maso yamma na Himalayas, a abin da ya sa'an nan Birtaniya mallaka - India.

Bayan wata sabuwar hanya ta saman mukamansu uku a yawan wadanda suka jikkata wanda aka ƙoƙarin cinye shi, da Jamusanci climbers ta farkon kaka 1939 sun kasance a Karachi, jiran jirgin komawa zuwa Turai da aka samu. A jirgin da aka tsare. Kuma jim kadan bayan Satumba 1 - ranar da commencement yakin duniya na II da kuma bayan shigarwa a ta UK - Satumba 3 - su na cikin yankin magabta, kuma aka kama su.

nasara gudun hijira

Ƙoƙari ya tsere - guda kuma a cikin kungiyoyin - kuzari Austria ya yi daga farkon ya tsare. Bayan da tawagar da ke cikin wani kullen sansanin, dake a cikin kwaruruka na Himalayas, domin Harrer ya bayyana gudun hijira hanya - ta hanyar dutsen kafa na Tibet. Movement a cikin duwatsu yankin na duniya, har ma ga mai horar da dan wasa - ba aiki mai sauki cewa bukatar tsanani shiri, don haka nasara da aka wa Harrer shi ne ba na farko ƙoƙari.

Mode a sansanin, inda ya umarci wani m Englishmen fili sosai daban-daban daga wadanda umarni cewa Jamusawa sanya wani fursuna na yaki a kan Eastern Front. Saboda haka, Harrer da abokansa da mai kyau damar sosai ya shirya mafaka. Amma ko da daga baya, zuwa kan iyakar India da Tibet mun ba kai duk - da yawa fi son su koma zuwa zango. A birnin Lhasa - Tibet babban birnin kasar - tare da Harrer ne kawai Peter Aufschnaiter, wanda sau da yawa da aka ambata a cikin tarihin rayuwar, wanda aka rubuta ta Heinrich Harrer.

"7 Years a Tibet"

Books sanya Austria matafiyi shahara, shi ya ƙunshi mai yawa bayanai game da kasar, inda damar zuwa kasashen waje da aka haramta doka ta. Akwai wani Hasashen na daya daga cikin masu hikima, bisa ga abin da Tibet rasa samun 'yancin kai bayan shi za a kasashen waje. Saboda haka, da farko Harrer da abokinsa ji da rashin jituwa dukan kabilar Tibet - da kuma sauki makiyaya da kuma daraja jami'ai.

An canza a hanyoyi masu yawa saboda da canje-canje a kansu leoyan - wuya fitina a matsafai na kan en, ganawa da wani sabon abu da hanyar rayuwa na kabilar Tibet, saba da su addini da cewa ya musanta cin zarafin wani dabba, sun bar wani alama a cikin rai na mutum, ko a farko rabu da girman kai ra'ayoyin 'yan Nazi.

Goma sha huɗu Dalai Lama

Tenzin Gyatso - mai rai embodiment na Buddha, da ruhaniya shugaban na Tibet, an na bincike yaro wanda yake so don ƙarin koyo game da duniya, located dubban mil daga mahaifarsa - wani gwarzo daga cikin littafin. Heinrich Harrer da Dalai Lama, ya samu Masana a 1940, da goyan bayan gabatarwar Harrer har zuwa rasuwarsa a 2006, exerting wani karfi juna tasiri a kan juna. Shi ne daga Austria, mazan da shekaru 26, da Dalai Lama ya koyi abubuwa da yawa game da Turai hadisai, kimiyya da fasaha nasarorin da wayewar.

Wannan ya haddasa zargin Tibet da mabiya addinin Buddha daga kasar Sin hukuma, painfully dacewa ga tambaya na Tibet 'yancin kai, dangantakar da Nazis. A daya hannun, da iko mai girma da Dalai Lama a siyasar duniya, wanda, duk da sadaukar da na zamanin da addini rukunan, shi ne wani mutum da rabuwa daga zamani na kasar, kuma Ya fãra a cikin wannan zumuntar biyu matasa wanda (musamman kuna hukunta da fim 1994) karfe real abokai.

Bisa ga wadannan abubuwan da ya halitta ya bestseller Heinrich Harrer. "Shekara bakwai a Tibet" da kuma harbi-littafi a kan ta fim da Brad Pitt, a cikin gubar rawa - sanya sunansa ya shahara a ko'ina cikin duniya. Ko da yake bayan da ya dawo zuwa mahaifarsa a 1950, ya sanya da yawa daga hawa da kuma a yanayin balaguro, tsunduma a bambancin zamantakewa, shi ne ya buga fiye da 20 littattafai. Harrer ne sau da yawa ya ce cewa shi ne haske shafukan ransa, cewa tun Tibet har abada kwana a zuciyarsa.