Wanda shi ne na farko da hawa Dutsen Everest? A abin da shekara zuwa hawa dutsen Everest?

Jamhuriyar Nepal, da aka sani da haifuwa daga cikin Buddha, shi ne mafi duwatsu kasa a duniya. A gefen arewa shi ne kẽwayesu da Great Himalayan Range, shahara da dama kololuwa wucewa 8,000 mita, ciki har da Dutsen Everest aka located - da mafi dutsen a duniya (8848 mita).

Everest: Wa lashe wuri na alloli

Bisa ga sanannen imani, wannan wuri da aka dauke da mazaunin alloli, don haka ba wanda ya ba ya faru ga shi zuwa hawa.

A saman duniya da aka ma na musamman sunan: Chomolungma ( "Uwar - aljanna na zaman lafiya") - a cikin kabilar Tibet da kuma Sagarmatha ( "The goshi sama") - da Nepalese. Everest yana zama da aka sani kawai, a 1856, ba mu yarda da China da kuma India, kazalika da kai tsaye aikata wannan laifi na renaming - Burtaniya aristocrat, masanin-surveyor, soja birgima cikin daya - Dzhordzh Everest, wanda ya iya na farko gano ainihin wurin da Himalayan kololuwa, kuma rufinta. A latsa ne har yanzu daga lokaci zuwa lokaci akwai jayayya game da dutsen, located in Asia, kada wata Turai sunan. Wanda farko nasara Everest - taron na wanda mafarkansu kusan kowane mai hawan duwatsu?

M kyakkyawa saman duniya

Nature Everest da kankara, snow da kuma kankara madawwami barazana mai tsanani da kuma tacitly kyau. Akwai kusan ko da yaushe mamaye matsananci sanyi (har zuwa -60 ° C), m sabon abu - avalanches da kuma dusar ƙanƙara nunin faifai, da kuma dutse kololuwa a kan kõwane cikin ƙaho m iska tashin iska gudun wanda ya kai 200 km / h. A tsawon game da 8000 mita farawa da "mutuwa zone", ake magana a kai a matsayin irin wannan ga rashin oxygen (30% na adadin ba a teku matakin).

A hadarin saboda abin da?

Duk da haka, duk da irin wannan matsananci yanayi, da ci na Everest ya kuma shine mafarki na da yawa tuddai a duk duniya. Tsaya a kan saman 'yan mintoci sauka a tarihi, dubi duniya daga ƙarƙashin sama, da tsawo - shi ne wannan ba farin ciki? Domin irin wannan ba za'a iya mantawaba lokacin da masu hawa ne son hadarin da rãyukansu. Kuma da hadarin da sanin cewa za su iya zama a cikin unexplored gefen har abada abadin. Human dalilai yiwu mutuwa, samu akwai wani rashin oxygen, frostbite, rauni, zuciya rashin cin nasara, m hatsarori da kuma ko da rashin tunani 'yan} ungiyarsu.

Saboda haka, a shekarar 1996, wani rukuni na masu hawa daga Japan da hawan Everest hadu uku Indiyawan - climbers wanda kasance a cikin wani semiconscious jihar. Suka mutu saboda Japan ba su da wani taimako, "fafatawa a gasa", indifferently wucewa. A 2006, 42 climbers, tare da shirye shiryen tashar «Gano» indifferently shige sannu a hankali mutu daga hypothermia Banasare David Sharp, kuma kokarin yin tambayoyi da shi da kuma daukar hotuna. A sakamakon haka, a daredevil suka yanke shawarar kadai ya yi nasara da Dutsen Everest, ya mutu daga frostbite da oxygen yunwa. Daya daga cikin Rasha climbers Alexander Abramov irin ayyuka abokan aiki ya yi bayani: "A tsawon fiye da 8,000 mita wani mutum wanda ya nẽmi abin da ke cinye taron, an cika shagaltar da ba shi da wani karin sojojin su taimaka a irin wannan haddi sharuddan."

Kokarin George Mallory: nasara, ko ba haka ba?

Saboda haka, bayan duk wanda farko nasara Dutsen Everest? Opening na George Everest, wanda ya ba nasara dutsen, ya} ashin ga unbridled so na da yawa masu hawa zuwa isa taron na duniya, cewa na farko (a 1921) ya yanke shawarar Dzhordzh Mellori - kasa Everest. Abin baƙin ciki, ya yi ƙoƙari ya m: nauyi snow, tsananin iska da kuma rashin kwarewa da dagawa zuwa tsawo na Birtaniya mai hawan duwatsu tsaya. Amma unattainable pinnacle Mallory ishãra, kuma ya za'ayi biyu m hawan (a 1922 da kuma 1924). A lokacin da na karshe balaguro Dzhordzh Mellori da abokin Endryu Irvin na wani gungu na gaba daya bace. Karshe ta cikin rata a cikin girgije murtuke zuwa saman su ga daya daga cikin mambobi na balaguro Noel Odell. Kawai bayan 75 years, da American search balaguro Mallory zauna da aka samu a tsawon 8155 mita. Bisa ga yadda suka wuri, da masu hawa fadi a cikin zurfin jãhilci. Har ila yau, a tsarar masana kimiyya, a cikin binciken na wannan kuma ragowar su location, an nuna cewa, George Mallory - na farko da mutum ya yi nasara da Everest. kuma shi aka iske ba Endryu Irvina ta jiki.

1924-1938 shekaru da aka alama ta kungiyar har yanzu a yawan expeditions, duk da haka, m. Bayan su a kan Everest ga wani lokaci manta, saboda yakin duniya na biyu.

trailblazers

Wanda farko nasara Dutsen Everest? Storm nepokorimuyu saman yanke shawarar a shekarar 1952 da Swiss, amma matsakaicin tsawo traversed da su tsaya a kusa da 8.500 mita, 348 mita, ba rakumi da masu hawa saboda mummunan yanayi.

Idan muka ɗauka cewa Mallory ba zai iya samun zuwa saman qarshe dutsen a duniya, da tambaya da wanda farko nasara Mount Everest, za mu iya amince ce - New Zilan Edmund Hillary a 1953, da kuma shi ne ba da kansa, da kuma tare da wani mataimaki - Sherpa Norgay Tenzing .

Af, Sherpa (Tibet, "Cher" - gabas, "pa" - mutane) - wannan mutane, ba tare da abin da, watakila, da wuya kowa zai iya kai haka coveted saman. Wannan dutsen mutanen da suka zauna a Nepal fiye da shekaru 500 da suka wuce. Shi ne mafi sauki ga Sherpas gudanar ya hau Dutsen Everest, saboda wannan dutse - mahaifarsa, wanda shi ne saba wa kõwane tafarki daga sosai yara.

Sherpas - a dogara mataimakin kan hanya zuwa saman

Sherpas - da kyau-natured mutane wanda ba zai iya haifar da laifin ga kowa. Ga su, na kashe talakawa sauro ko filin linzamin kwamfuta ke dauke da wani mummunan zunubi, wanda ake bukata sosai otmalivat. Mun Sherpas suna da nasu harshe, amma suna da yanzu kusan kowa da kowa yana jin Turanci. A wannan babban rabo mai girma Edmund Hillary - na farko nasara daga Everest. A godiya ga invaluable taimako da shi a kan kansa kudi don gina wata makaranta a daya daga cikin manyan garuruwa.

Ko da yake tare da duk shigar azzakari cikin farji na rayuwa Sherpa wayewa da hanyar rayuwa zauna sun fi mayar da patriarchal. Traditional ƙauyuka - wani biyu-storey dutse gidan a kan benen kasa wanda mafi yawa ana dauke da shanu, yaks, da tumaki, da awaki, da kuma iyali da kanta ne yawanci located a hawa na biyu. akwai wani kitchen, da gida mai dakuna, falo. Furniture m. Godiya ga farko da tuddai ba haka ba da dadewa akwai wutar lantarki. gas ko wasu irin tsakiyar dumama suna da ya zuwa yanzu ba. Kamar yadda man fetur domin dafa sun yi amfani da zuriyar dabbobi yaks, wanda aka tattara da kuma bushe a kan kankara.

Unattainable Dutsen Everest ... wanda farko nasara da m kololuwa: Edmund Hillary ko Dzhordzh Mellori? Masana kimiyya suna neman amsar da ba rana, kazalika da amsar wannan tambaya na abin da shekara nasara Everest a 1924 ko 1953 a.

Records na Everest

Everest bada fiye da mutum daya, har ma da records da aka sa a kan wucin gadi hawan saman. Alal misali, a 2004 Sherpa Pemba Dorj ya zo da ita daga tushe a zangon 10 hours 46 da minti, yayin da mafi yawan masu hawa a kan wannan aiki zai iya daukar har zuwa kwanaki da dama. The fi sauri saukar da dutsen a shekarar 1988, da kasar Faransa Jean-Mark Buaven, duk da haka, ya yi da Jump to paroplane.

Matan da suka yi nasara da Dutsen Everest, a wata hanya ba, baya ga mutãne, da taurin da kuma tsayin shawo kan kowace mita hawan saman. A farko daga cikin mafi kyau rabin Adam a shekarar 1975 shi ne Japanese Junko Tabey, kwanaki 10 - Phantog, Tibet mai hawan duwatsu.

Wanda farko nasara Everest a cikin tsofaffi? The mafi nasara na kololuwa ne a 76-shekara mazaunin na Nepal - min Bahadur Sher Khan, da kuma ƙarami - 13-shekara American Jordan Romero. Abin sha'awa dagewa da wani matasa nasara na "saman duniya" - 15-shekara Sherpa Temba Tseri, wanda farko ƙoƙari ya m saboda rashin ƙarfi, kuma frostbite na hannayensa biyu. Bayan ya sake Tembe 5, bisa yatsunsu cewa bai hana shi, ya yi nasara Dutsen Everest ya ta biyu hawan.

Daga cikin mutane da nakasa ma da mutum na farko zuwa nasara da Everest. Wannan shi ne Mark Inglis, ya tashi zuwa saman duniya a 2006 da taimakon prostheses. Hero ko joked cewa sabanin sauran masu hawa, ba frostbitten yatsun kafa. Kuma ya frostbitten ƙafãfunsu kafin yayin da yunƙurin hawa da girma ganiya a New Zealand - Dutsen Cook, bayan abin da suka kasance gurguwar.

A fili, Everest yana da wasu ikon sihiri to shi idan daruruwan masu hawa garken. Don cinye shi sake da kuma sake dawo, kokarin yi shi a sake.

Atawa ganiya - Dutsen Everest

Wanda shi ne na farko da hawa Dutsen Everest? Me ake mutane haka kõma zuwa wannan wuri? Dalilan da wannan ne da yawa. Cakulkuli jijiyoyi, rashin thrills, da marmarin gwada kanka rashin nishaɗi na rayuwar yau da kullum ....

Texas miliyoniya Dick Bass - mutumin da ya ci da yaki Everest. Ya ba wata sana'a mai hawan duwatsu, da aka ba za su ciyar da shekaru a kan sosai shirye-shiryen ga m hawan da kuma yanke shawarar ci ganiya na duniya a lokaci daya, kamar yadda suka ce: nan da kuma yanzu. Bass ya yarda ya biya wani kudi ga wadanda suka bayar da gudummawa ga ganin na da alama ba zai yiwu ba mafarki.

Dick Bass har yanzu iya isa taron na Mount Everest, da kuma mataimakansa a cikin balaguro da aka tara a tawagar wadda cimma miliyoniya ta'aziyya Hawa up. Mutane suka ɗauki dukan kaya, tantuna, oxygen tankuna, ruwa, abinci. Abin da ya ce, hawan da ya faru a wani "duk m" kuma shi ne farkon kasuwanci tafiya zuwa saman.

Yana da aka tun sa'an nan, tun shekarar 1985, ya kai ga taron iya zama kowa da ya yi da isasshen kudi. A ranar, da kudin na daya irin wannan hawa dabam daga 40 zuwa 85 dala dubu, dangane da gefen wani dutse hau. Idan tafiya faruwa a kan wani ɓangare na Nepal, shi ne mafi tsada domin bukatar musamman izinin sarki, da daraja 10 dubu daloli. Sauran adadin da aka biya domin kungiyar na balaguro.

Kuma ko da yana da wani bikin aure ...

A shekarar 2005, Mona Mulet da Pem Georgie taka leda a saman duniya ta bikin aure. Hawa a sama, ma'auratan dauki kashe for 'yan mintoci na oxygen masks, sa a cikin wuyõyin gargajiya masu launin tutocin furanni. Sa'an nan Pem mulufi foda shafa a goshi na da amarya zuwa alamar aure. Newlyweds ya yi aka kiyaye asirin daga kowa da kowa: iyaye, abokai, sahabbansa a kan balaguro, domin sun kasance ba m da nasara sakamakon shirya ayyuka.

Saboda haka ta yaya mutane da yawa hawa Dutsen Everest? Abin mamaki, to date, fiye da mutane 4,000. Kuma mafi kyau duka lokaci don hawa da m yanayin yanayi dauke su bazara da kaka. Gaskiya, wannan idyll yana dan lokaci - kamar 'yan makonni, da cewa masu hawa ƙoƙarin yin amfani da mafi hayayyafa.

Bisa ga statistics daga waɗanda suka cinye Everest mutu kowane goma, tare da mafi yawan hatsarori faruwa a lokacin zuriya, a lokacin da ikon da aka kusan tafi. Rubuce, za ka iya hawa Dutsen Everest a cikin 'yan kwanaki. A yi, da ake bukata sauka a hankali da kuma ganiya hade rubucen da halts.