Pastukhov Rocks: Description

Dutsen Elbrus ne mafi girma ba kawai a cikin Caucasus amma kuma a Turai. Wannan mazugi na wani dadadden aman wuta tare da biyu kololuwa, da tsawo daga wanda 5642 mita (yammacin saman) da kuma 5621 m (m kokuwa). Tsakanin su zurfi sirdi aka located a tsawon 5325 mita.

Elbrus janyo hankalin ba kawai na gida masu hawa. Kalubalanci kanka da kai a cikin ra'ayoyi da cewa bude daga saman, masu hawa zo daga kusa da nesa kasashen waje.

hawa hanyoyi

Hadari yayin da hawa da fasa an rufe tare da dusar ƙanƙara a glaciers, tsananin iska, low yanayin zafi da kuma rashin oxygen a lokacin hawan tsawo.

Za ka iya isa taron daga arewacin gefe. A lokacin da hawan m ra'ayoyi na snow-bugawa duwãtsu a cikin kore filin. A arewacin gangara ba lifts, deben hanyoyi, mafaka da kuma cafes, don haka masu hawa da su dõgara a kan nasu ƙarfi.

Hawa a yammacin gefen Dutsen Elbrus aka dauke su mafi matsananci. A nan, kuma, babu lifts, snow groomers, da fitar da sama da dutse hawa zuwa da ake so tsawo, babu wani kayayyakin more rayuwa. A kan hanya mai yawa cliffs da glaciers, don haka a nan tafi kawai gogaggen masu hawa. Lokacin da dagawa saman gabas daga izinin Irik-Chat (tsawo 3667 m) yayi wani kyakkyawan ra'ayi na gabashin ganiya. Ga gleiser dabara cika motsi a kan kankara, da igiya sanar da hanyoyin da inshora.

Hawa zuwa saman kudu

Domin hawa Elbrus aza fiye da ɗari biyu hanyoyi, duka waɗanda suke ga gogaggen climbers, kazalika da sabon shiga. Hawan zuwa taron daga kudancin gangara ne mashahuri a cikin sabon shiga climbers. Yana farawa daga tushe Azau (tsawo 2200 mita). Ga shi ne na farko acclimatization zuwa dutsen yanayi. Next, tafarkin kaiwa zuwa dutsen tsari "ganga" Pastukhov ta Rocks, bayan da ta fara hawan zuwa taron na Mount Elbrus.

Gogaggen climbers iya cinye dutse a kan nasu, da kuma mutanen da basu da kwarewa, shirya kungiyoyin da hawan tare da wani mai shiryarwa. Saboda wuya yanayi a kan Dutsen Elbrus hawan yi mafi alhẽri a cikin rani da kuma fada ba daga baya fiye Oktoba.

Mene ne "Pastukhov ta Rocks"

Wannan rukuni na kankara located a gefen kudu Elbrus. Stone kunya ne mai suna bayan da Rasha mai hawan duwatsu da kuma soja topographer Andrei Pastukhov, tsunduma a cikin binciken na Caucasus Mountains. Tare da hawan zuwa high tsawo mutum dole ne sha acclimatization kuma don amfani da su da rashin oxygen yanayi a duwãtsu.

A bisa ga al'ada Pastukhov ta Rocks, da tsawo daga wanda dabam daga 4600 zuwa 4800 mita da kuma bauta a matsayin wurin acclimatization kafin hau zuwa saman Mount Elbrus. Ga kungiyar ciyarwa da dare a cikin haimõmi. Arancinsu yi tattali, ga hawan saman mutane za su iya hawa cikin kankara a snowcat (musamman kai ga motsi glaciers) da kuma sha'awan da dutsen shimfidar wuri, kuma sai ku zuriya a kan wani snowboard ko kayan gudun kan.

Wasu bayanai game da Andrei Pastukhov

Pastuhov Andrey aka haife shi a 1858 a Kharkov lardin. Ya sauke karatu daga soja makaranta a St. Petersburg, sa'an nan aka aika zuwa da kungiyar soja na soja surveyors, kuma daga baya aka nada zuwa Caucasus Soja District. Taswirar na dutsen jeri a Dagestan, da kuma a 1889 lashe gabashin ganiya Kazbek a gefen arewa. Babu daya kafin shi ba ya yi irin wannan hawan.

A shekara daga baya, Rasha mai hawan duwatsu na farko ya tashi zuwa yamma ganiya Elbrus ba tare da wayoyi. A wannan yakin ya sanya taswirar glaciers da tara a manyan tarin dutsen ma'adanai. A lokacin 1890 da surveyor sanya da dama ascents a cikin duwatsu, a lokacin da sharewa daban-daban hanyoyi. Kawai a cikin 1896, shi ya sa na biyu hawan a kan m ganiya. A wannan dagawa kungiyar, wanda ya raka shi, sai ya ciyar da dare a kan wani m kunya, sa'an nan makale ta sunan Pastukhov kankara.

The classic hawan hanya

The classic hawan hanya a kan Elbrus nasa ne mawuyaci 2A. Bar iya yin wani jiki da lafiya mutum da kwarewa na tafiya a cikin duwatsu. Your hanya za bukatar kayan aiki da dumi tufafi saboda yanayin a kan Elbrus unpredictable.

Bayan wani gajeren acclimatization tashar "Azau" kungiyar tare da dukan kayan aiki a cikin USB mota daga zuwa tsawo na 3800 mita ga tsari "ganga". A nan ne makaran bukkokin, tsara don wani zaman kan mutum 50, kazalika 2 kitchens da kuma cin abinci yankunan. A tsari yana da wutar lantarki dumama. Don daidaita da kasancewa a kan duwatsu, a cikin "ganga" wajibi ne don ciyar 2-3 dare da rana.

Bayan da masu hawa suna motsi a cikin dutse "Tsari goma sha" da kuma sa fitar da wani horo tafiya zuwa Pastukhov kankara. Sawu gudanar tare da kankara kasa, an rufe shi da dusar ƙanƙara.

Hau zuwa saman Elbrus fara a dare. Daga tsara don Pastukhov Rocks je game da 2 hours. Ta hanyar 300-400 mita sama da kankara kai tsaye hawan fara, bayan da hanya ya jũya zuwa ga sirdi. Bayan awa ta sauran a cikin sirdi iya yin hawan wani kokuwa.

Kayan aiki don hawa Elbrus

bukatar mu kawo su a kudancin kafaɗar dawo da:

• ulu ko auduga tufafi.
• kamar wata kafa na tufafi da dumi safa.
• barci jakar cewa za su iya jure yanayin zafi har zuwa -5 ° C;
• termomasku kare fuska daga frostbite ko m cream.
• windproof dumi jacket tare da wani kaho ko jacket wanda zai tsayayya da yawan zafin jiki na -2 ° C;
• mai tsayi takalma da wuya soles da welts for kayyade Cats da m takalma.

Bugu da kari, za ka bukatar wani cat, kankara gatari, yin yawo taimakon farko Kit, kayan wanka, ski sandunan, dumi safar hannu, headlamp tocila. Tabbata ya dauki wani ski hula da tabarau da UV tacewa.

Yarda da aminci yayin da hawa

Kafin hawa kungiyar dole ne a rajista tare da bincike da kuma ceto kungiyar EMERCOM na Rasha. Lokacin da rijista nuna yawan mutanen da, lokacin da za a hanya da dawowar iko, da kuma data shugaban kungiya. A lokacin da hawan ba za ka iya tafi da hanya a kayyade a cikin yarda.

Tabbatar da duba samuwar kayan aiki, da taimako na farko kaya da rediyo ko wasu hanyar sadarwa. Daidai tsince harsasai da kuma tufafi za su yi hawa m, kuma ba a juya shi a cikin wani yaƙi rayuwa.

Musamman hankali ya kamata a bai wa acclimatization zuwa dutsen yanayi. Hawa zuwa saman iya kawai 3-4 kwanaki bayan daukan hotuna da "ganga" da kuma gwajin gangamin Pastukhov kankara. Elbrus ba Ya gãfarta m horo. Mutane da yawa na iya fara anoxia, mai tsanani ciwon kai. Wasu daga cikin rashin oxygen da kwarara zuwa cikin m jihar, rasa su ji daga gaskiya. Idan wannan ya faru, kana bukatar ka sauko.

Daga cikin kayayyakin akwai buƙatar ka kai tare da Boiled nama, kayan lambu, 'ya'yan itatuwa bushe da kwayoyi. The tsari da za a hanya za a iya dafa shi miya, qwai, kaza cutlets, porridge. Chocolate ba da shawarar ci, saboda shi zai iya sa tashin zuciya da kuma mummunan ga hanta.

A lõkacin saukarsa daga saman Elbrus

Mutane da yawa zo da makõma "Azau Elbrus" in je gudun kan. A wajen kudancin kafaɗar akwai 7 ski gangara don gogaggen wasan na da sabon shiga. Su duka tsawon ne 11 km. Kusan duk downhill - yana da daya sawu game 6 km m, a kan wanda ba fihirisa da kuma yin rantsuwa, da kuma kariya raga ne kawai a wasu wurare.

A shafin akwai da dama ski gangara tashoshin, wanda isar da wasan na dauke. Tsororuwar to wanda Yunƙurin a daga - tashar "Gara-Bashi", shi ne a tsawon 3800 mita (kadan sama da "ganga" tsari). Har yanzu mafi girma up, "Tsari goma sha" za a iya isa ta snowcat. A yankin tsakanin "Tsari goma sha" da "Gara-Bashi" iya Master kawai ta gogaggen wasan na. Wasu wasan na, matsananci zo Pastukhov kankara. Downhill gudun a cikin wannan yanki shi ne matukar hatsari domin ba za ka iya samu shiga wani crack, ko kuma fall a wani ambaliyar ruwa.

Kiyaye a kan gangara gudun kan hadaddun "Elbrus Azau" iko Rescue Service, musamman m wurare a kewaye m keji a kan kowane hanya kashi video kyamarori. Saba wasan na fi tafi tare da wani malami, saboda daji dutsen gangara iya zama unpredictable.